Cap Esterias is not so much a town, but an area. The locals fish and farm for a living. The Chinese are supposed to build a deep water port here, but a lot of infrastructure needs to happen first (how about a road?). When we turn off of the logging road it becomes a twisting mud path that you take for about 10K out to the ocean. With all of the mud and the hilly terrain it would be impossible to navigate without 4WD. We pass by a few local homes, which are old concrete structures without glass in the windows; no electricity or water and lots of hanging laundry.
When we get to the ocean, there are a number of old unfinished homes and some foundations along the cliffs. All have unbelievable views overlooking the ocean. These homes were either started by families with some means who were (still are) waiting for a road to be built, or put up by loggers who needed a small home near the beach where its cooler while they decimate the area.
The beach is very wild and beautiful. We climb down from the cliffs and drag our gear over the rocky parts of the shore until we find a sandy spot. The ocean is warm, a little rough, but with a clean sandy bottom.
When we arrived, there was one local man with a pack of straggly dogs cutting back the bush around his home. As we pack it up he comes over…”Je suis votre guardian”…he is letting us know that he was watching the car, which is normal. Even though no one is around, we give him a few CFA for his troubles…he has to earn a living somehow.